I think we've got beyond thinking about lentils in a stereotypical way. We no longer shunt them mentally into a kind of hippy, wholefood ghetto, do we? Not when they grace the menus of high-end restaurants. But we still don't use them enough. We need to claim lentils for mainstream home cooking: they are cheap, nutritious, versatile and very tasty. In my house, they're right up there with spuds, rice and pasta, in that I'll use them at least once a week.
In fact, should the apocalypse approach, I'd hoard lentilles du Puy in far greater quantities than penne or potatoes. Whereas a meal of pasta or rice alone would lack interest and nutritional range, I could polish off abowl of lentils with just some salt, pepper and good olive oil, and feel satisfied on every level. Not only do they have a rich, earthy flavour, but they give you protein, carbs, fibre, vitamin B and iron.
Of course, lentils are much nicer if you combine them with a few other choice ingredients. Lentil-rich diets have kept people hale and hearty for hundreds if not thousands of years, and feature in countless traditional dishes where just a handful of veg, or a few scraps of meat and perhaps a dash of spice, turn a pile of simply cooked pulses into a satisfying meal. In hearty soups across Europe, say, they're paired with sausage (or other pork) and some greens, while in the dals of the Indian subcontinent, garlic, onions and spices make them something you can turn to day after day without boredom.
Lentils are fantastic for impromptu meals. They last ages in the cupboard and, unlike dried beans, don't need soaking. They cook quickly (though the longer they've been stored, the longer they will need). I eat them in lots of ways all year round, but they are especially valuable in winter, when fresh homegrown veg isn't so abundant. Lentils can function as the veg component of a meal, but they also enhance seasonal veg such as cabbage or celeriac.
Of the widely available types of lentil, only the "red" ones (actually a joyful orange) collapse when cooked. Simmered in water or stock, they reduce in about 20 minutes to a soft, fluffy state that makes them perfect for soups and Indian-style purées. Asimple red lentil dal, seasoned with salt, pepper and a mild curry powder (or just turmeric), and finished with spicy fried onions, isdelicious comfort food of the healthiest sort. Most other lentils hold their shape. I like the standard brown and green ones stewed with sausages, or in savoury, vegetably mixtures for stews and pies – a little bit Cranks circa 1975, perhaps, but none the worse for that. I also like green lentils for sprouting – a simple process that increases their nutritional value, and makes them perfect for stir-fries.
But my absolute favourites are puy lentils. These tiny, mottled, greeny-blue flying saucers have a distinctive earthy flavour and incomparable nutty texture. I eat them most often in salads or simply dressed as a side dish for fish, poultry or game. When leftover meat abounds – roast lamb, beef, pork or chicken – I'll chop it and toss with dressed puy lentils and a handful of flat-leaf parsley, rocket or other peppy leaves.
It used to be essential to pick over lentils before cooking, to check for grit, but most are now grit-free. Even so, give them a good wash, to get rid of any starchy dust. And it's vital to rinse red lentils, or they'll cook up a bit sticky. There's a theory that salting the cooking water toughens the skins. I've tested this and think it's a bit spurious, but out of habit, when cooking them plain, Istick to tradition and season afterwards. For the simplest dish of puy lentils, once drained and while still warm, season with plenty of salt and pepper, a good glug of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. This still-warm stage is also the time to add more highly seasoned dressings – your lentils will soak up other flavours beautifully.
Sausage and puy lentil hotpot with prunes
This hearty, savoury winter dish is gently lifted by the rich sweetness of the prunes. Serves four to six.
2 tbsp olive oil
2 large onions, peeled and sliced thin
2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced on the diagonal
2 stems celery, sliced on the diagonal
2 bay leaves (optional)
1 sprig fresh thyme (optional)
8 sausages
500ml chicken stock
150g puy lentils
200g pitted prunes
Sea salt and freshly ground blackpepper
Heat the oven to 140C/285F/gas mark 1. Heat the oil in a large casserole overa medium-low heat. Add the onions, cover, sweat for 10-15 minutes, thenadd the carrots and celery, and bay and thyme, if using, cover and sweat for 10 minutes more.
Heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan, brown the sausages all over, then add to the casserole. Deglaze the frying pan with a little stock, then pour into the casserole. Add the lentils, prunes and remaining stock – the liquid should barely cover everything, so add water if need be – bring to a simmer, cover and pop into the oven for an hour to an hour and a half. Give it a stir halfway through. Season to taste, and serve. This is great with a baked potato and some lightly cooked greens.
Brown lentil salad with celery and walnuts
A lentilly salad can be light but still satisfying. Serves three to four.
150g brown lentils
½ onion
1 bay leaf
2 tender inner celery stems, thinly sliced on the bias (save any leaves)
50g walnuts, very roughly chopped
Shavings of parmesan, to finish
For the dressing
½ clove garlic, peeled and crushed
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp cider vinegar
1 tsp English mustard
Sea salt and freshly ground blackpepper
Put the lentils in a saucepan with theonion and bay leaf. Cover with plenty of cold water, bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 25-30 minutes, until tender but still nutty. Drain and discard the onion and bay.
Combine the ingredients for the dressing. As soon as the lentils are drained, and while they're still hot, stir in two-thirds of the dressing and leave the lentils to cool completely.
Combine the cooled lentils with the celery and walnuts. Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with any reserved celery leaves, some parmesan shavings, the remaining dressing and a grind of black pepper. Serve with bread.
Curried red lentil soup with spicy yoghurt
Warming and substantial, this makes a very satisfying meal. Servesfour.
2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1-2 bay leaves
1 smallish carrot, peeled and chopped
1 small celery stick, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
4cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped
1-2 red chillies (or to taste), halved, deseeded and chopped
1 tbsp medium curry powder
1 tsp ground cumin
180g red lentils
1 litre vegetable stock
Juice of ½ lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground blackpepper
1 small handful coriander leaves, tofinish (optional)
For the spiced yoghurt
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 pinch of caraway seeds
1 pinch of cayenne pepper
4 tbsp plain yoghurt
1 tbsp olive oil
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and sweat the onion and bay leaves for 10 minutes, until soft. Add the carrot and celery, and sauté for five minutes. Stir in the garlic, ginger, chilli, curry powder and cumin, add the lentils and stir to coat. Add the stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 25 minutes, until the lentils are very soft. Remove the bay, purée the lentils, add the lemon and season to taste. If the soup is a bit thick, thin with hot water. To make the spiced yoghurt, dry fry the cumin, coriander and caraway seeds until toasted and fragrant. Transfer to a spice grinder or pestle and mortar, and grind to a powder. Combine with the cayenne and a pinch of salt. Stir a heaped teaspoon into the yoghurt (keep the rest in a jar) and whisk in the oil.
Serve the hot soup topped with a few dabs of spiced yoghurt, some fresh coriander and good bread.
